2003 Acura TL Type-S - $4,000.00
*** ALL DETAILS AT BestAcura.com ***
VIN: 19UUA56963A025857
Clean title in hand
Asking $4000 OBO
MUST SELL BEFORE SATURDAY 10/5 (tomorrow) as I’m moving to Texas and have a vehicle waiting for me there, no longer need.
*** ALL DETAILS AT BestAcura.com ***
I bet on this car for myself, I did the wrenching, then got laid off last week, and decided Im moving to Texas and bought a truck, don’t need to move the car to Texas.
Kelly Blue Book value… even with 216,000 miles: $4,345
https://www.kbb.com/acura/tl/2003
One rule: don’t waste my time.
If you offer less than $3500 you will be immediately blocked.
This one is in the best shape of any Ive seen… and I may go down to $4000 or lower if you send your hot wife to buy it! I’ve created this archive so as to answer all of your questions so Please Read Fully before inquiring.
Thank you for your time
Serious buyers with cash in hand (or Zelle/ Paypal), please inquire via:
Call or text: [hidden information]
Email: [hidden information]
Facebook Messenger: @LennyJohnson5
Paypal: https://paypal.me/lorenund
Zelle: [hidden information]
The Engine
The Type S had the fully built, turbocharged 3.2L V6 which was severely underrated at 260hp on paper, in order to downplay the engine’s specialty and minimize the impact on the flagship NSX. It actually had close to 260hp AT THE WHEELS – a big difference that they claimed was a mistake.
This engine was originally developed for a never-released sister model to Acura’s flagship sports car the NSX. When that prospect model was scrapped, they used the engine for an upgraded TL model named the Type S released in 2002.
The 2002 and 2003 models’ excessive HP and torque burned through transmissions. The one my mother bought new in 03 burned through 3 trannys in 65k miles, there was a class action lawsuit which compelled Acura to nerf the engine specs for 2004 and later models.
Note: Obviously this car does not have one of the old transmissions, we don’t know when it was replaced, but I guarantee it was because the originals never lasted so long.
It even has the tiptronic shifting – you can slide be shifter over to “manual” (automatic clutch) and hit up/down – so fun!
The previous owner is a friend of mine and a local business owner and very trustworthy guy, which is why I bought the car from him in the first place (meaning he’s still available for any questions and has been great as I fixed everything below, just in case anything comes up!)
*** Timing belt & crankshaft position sensor replaced at 185,000 miles (9-2020)
Water pump 5000 miles ago
Fuel pump 5000 miles ago
Serpentine belt
Front brakes & rotors 5000 miles ago
MY fixes required to get it to top notch status since I purchased it 2 months ago:
Rear brakes & rotors 200 miles ago ($280 at OReilly)
… while I was doing the brakes I noticed that both sway bar links (left and right) were broken! So the sway bar wasn’t connected on either side. The sway bar is just a big bar connecting the two coil over shocks on either side to each other to minimize suspension roll when cornering.
Two hours of griding Both left & right sway bar links replaced – she drives like a brand new car now! ($120 at oreilly)
Replaced fuel pump control relay 500 miles ago – this fixed the non-starting issue they thought was the fuel pump ($120 at Oreilly)
Drivers side power window control module – ($70 at U-Pull-R-Parts with warranty)
Drivers power window motor, regulator, track assembly ($85 at AutoZone)
Cylinder #6 Ignotion coil pack replaced immediately when cylinder #6 started misfiring last week ($75 at OReilly)
New low-profile, high performance tires still at 70%
AC works perfectly (I’m an HVAC tech but I never had to touch it, blows cold all of the time and compressor does not short cycle)
BOSE Premium speaker package with subwoofer – this sounds really really good using a high quality connection – and I’ve found the best quality is this bluetooth cassette tape adapter (goes with car) – high quality at high volume is no problem with this setup and you’ll be amazed at the sound!
Catalytic convertor was stolen a couple of years ago so the previous owner (who I know well and took very good care of the car) had his mechanic install a straight pipe in place. For this reason there is one check engine code for the 02 Sensor Heater Circuit – because the secondar O2 sensor is inside of the catalytic convertor on these cars, so running the vehicle without that secondary O2 sensor throws this check engine code, but it runs fine – has a lot more torque than it otherwise would, thanks to the straight pipe! (You wouldn’t be able to get it to pass emissions in Commiefornia, for example, but screw them anyway).
Cons:
Slight body damage (not worth fixing in my opinion) to lower front bumper cover (fiberglass). All lights work fine except for the passenger side lower fog light (which I’d never use anyway so I didn’t worry about it)
Small gasoline leak – has been this way forever, doesn’t leak constantly, or from the bottom of the tank.
It’s leaking from a spot on the top of the evap canister on the side of the gas tank, apparently a common issue according to google, nothing to worry about, but if left sitting could have a spot of gasoline on the ground and it tends to smell like gas if you fill the tank all of the way up and drive like a madman so it’s sloshing around up there. I’ve just kept the tank under 70% full and I dont smell gas often.
It has a slight “shimmy” which varies between 40-50mph when getting up to speed on the freeway. After checking all of the suspension components and fixing the sway bar links it is better, but still a sight shimmy, which I think due to the narrow speed range of this happening, indicates to me it’s the motor mount – which is basically a big rubber block and they just wear out.
Luckily it looks like a fairly simple job for any half-competent mechanic – just remove a couple of bolts and jack the engine up an inch and a half and swap it out.
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